The author of this book is making it available as a free download for a limited time 12/18/2011. Get your copy!

UPDATE: As you try clicking through the numerous “download now” links you’ll find DP Review saying it was Saturday the 17th you could download it. IGNORE that. Look for this link

https://s3.amazonaws.com/movies.dpreview.com/wildlife/WildlifePhotography.pdf.zip?AWSAccessKeyId=14Y3MT0G2J4Y72K3ZXR2&Expires=1324249200&Signature=diKQU9unVP4Fct3LYtiygHuYW5Y%3D

From the Author:

Wildlife photography
On Safari with Your DSLR: Equipment, Techniques, Workflow

Photographer and environmentalist Uwe Skrczypczak wrote this book with several goals in mind-to teach the technical aspects and the workflow of digital wildlife photography; to show the beauty of East Africa and his beloved Serengeti National Park and to educate about its habitat; and to provide a guide for the photographer who is planning to go on an African photo safari and wants to be prepared to capture the finest possible images.

Beginning with digital photography techniques and workflow, Skrczypczak draws upon his own vast experience in wildlife photography to teach about the equipment, the pros and cons of camera types and lenses, and the specific requirements for this demanding task. Also covered are appropriate techniques for exposure and autofocus-the latter being one of the major challenges in wildlife photography. He discusses an “on the road” workflow, the logistics of transporting your gear, and image editing.

The book goes on to cover the practical aspects of wildlife photography, from shooting animal portraits to panning the camera in order to capture that speeding leopard. Example images are accompanied by a small set of pictograms showing which techniques are ideal for capturing the specific situation.

Loaded with hundreds of breathtaking images, this comprehensive textbook is perfect for the beginning wildlife photographer as well as the seasoned pro. Whether your subject is African wildlife or bird photography in the Arctic Circle, Uwe Skrczypczak’s Wildlife Photography will teach you the fundamental concepts and techniques that can be applied to all forms of wildlife photography. Topics include:
• Equipment and accessories
• Planning your trip
• Conditions on the road
• The right place at the right time
• Image composition
• Where to stay and daily routine
• The light in East Africa
• Migrations and mating seasons
• Habitats and animal behavior
• River crossings
• The big cats, rhinos, giraffes, etc.

I live in a town where the power goes off when the neighbor’s dog farts. No seriously, we lose power once a month minimum. Most of the time, it’s clearly a car accident or something, and it’s only out for an hour or so. Just the same, we’ve found that we need to have back up plans to back up plans. As such, I’ve invested a lot in to portable L.E.D. lighting for those times you get the sense it’s just not worth hauling out the generator. We have an older fabulous Coleman camping lantern which has worked for years, and continues to. We’ve gotten through many outages on the same batteries. It just doesn’t put out enough light to fill a room. That’s when I got looking for additional lanterns.

A few searches turned up the Rayovac SE3DLN Sportsman Xtreme 300-Lumen LED Lantern. It’s a long name for a small in size light. Remember though, good things can come in small packages. This light takes only 3-D cell batteries, which mean the two I picked up only used one package of rayovac batteries, instead of needing to buy two and having an unusable amount of leftover batteries. I wasn’t sure how bright they would be so it was the first thing I tested. The video above shows the different power levels. What I hadn’t discovered is what seems to be a standard feature in led flashlights and lanterns now. If the lantern is off, hold the power button and it will begin flashing give you a seizure mode.

The only consistent downfall from reviews is that this lantern has a couple of notches that must be aligned in order to put the battery cover back on. If you hold the bottom at a 90 degree angle and ling up the two arrows, you can fairly easily put the cover on. My suggestion though, is to put the batteries in the lantern in advance of you actually needing to use it. A minute now, will likely save you several fumbling in the dark.

I have to admit, I’ve only had the lanterns a few days, and thankfully have not lost power since we got them. I’d say though, that these are going to see some pretty good use to hold us off on having to run a gas generator just to see and read stories or play some board games. With a nice handle on top, and a fold out clip to hang the lantern from the inside of a tent, one will also likely go on camping adventures with us as well. I’ll report back if my opinion changes.

7914 Mandalorian Battle Pack is a neat little set if you’re looking to build an army of Mandalorians. I’m pretty sure that’s why Lego refers to sets like this as “Battle Pack.” If you’ll recall Hasbro sued Lego at one point for releasing sets containing only minifigures from a licensed series. So from now on Lego has decided to include little ships or other things so they are still a building set. The ship and turret are almost throw aways in this one. That’s O.K. though, because we all know that anyone that buys this set is doing so for the minifigures.

You get four identical figures (go figure) with printed fronts and blank backsides. Each has a helmet separate from the jet pack, much like the new version of Bobba Fett found in the 8097 Slave 1 set. Since it appears they likely used the same mold for the helmet, they also come with holes for add on accessories. So if you have extra visors and such from those ugly clone troopers, you can put them on these. You also get a small arsenal of firearms. A blaster, blaster rifle and 2 pistols. You also get a brick built ‘heavy machine gun’ which for some reason made me think of the gun Hannibal always carried around.

At 68 pcs for an $11.99 MSRP, the price per piece is pretty high, but that’s always the case with licensed sets. Overall this is a great way to pick up some very cool minifigures.

I recently upgraded my WordPress Installation to the most recent version. This brings in a new way of managing media, but broke a long standing and simple to use plugin which allowed me to visually pick a photo from my photostream and add it to a post. Much to my dismay, finding something that worked out of the box was all but impossible. Make that NOTHING worked out of the box as advertised. With some testing and searches of Google, I finally found something that worked. So I share the steps hoping to pull together a bunch of different resources in to one clear, concise place.

Plugin Used: FlickrPress

The tricky part of this plugin is that it’s not evidently clear how you actually make it work. So to start, you need to make sure you have no other flickr plugins installed or you may find problems with different plugins instantiating (or trying to) functions with the same names. Big problems happen, and it may not even install.

For those not aware how to install plugins, lets start from the beginning.

1. Log in to your wordpress admin dashboard
2. Click on “Plugins”
3. Click on “Add New”
4. Use the search to find FlickrPress
5. Click on install now.
6. If it succeeds you’ll be given a chance to  Activate it. Otherwise
7. Click on “Plugins > Installed Plugins”
8. Click on “Activate” beside FlickrPress

Now comes the fun part. You’ll need an api key, but the plugin doesn’t seem to help you with that part. You’ll need to log in to flickr and once you have:

1. Click on your username to go to your account.
2. Click on the “Sharing & Extending” tab and scroll down.
3. Access the “You’re API Keys” area. (I already have APIs, so I’m not sure what it displays if you don’t.
4. Click on the big blue “Get Another Key” button
5. Follow the steps here to create a new key and secret. Make sure to name the key so you know what it is for.
6. Once the key follow steps 1-3 to get back to your API keys.
7. Click on your new API key and click on “Edit the authentication flow” on the right.
8. You’ll need to enter a callback url. This should look like http://[your-domain.com]/wp-content/plugins/wp-flickr-press/flickr_oauth_callback.php

Now you can finally make the plugin work!

1. Click on “Settings”
2. Click on “FlickrPress”
3. Enter the API key and Secret Key you created.
4. Click on the “Update OAuth Token” button.
5. Scroll down and click “Save Changes”

Phew, now sit back and have yourself a drink. You’re ready to start using your flickr photos in your posts. When you create or edit posts, a new icon that looks like the flickr logo shows up over the editor box. Click it once it loads, there’s a bunch of great ways to search your photostream. It defaults at newest to oldest. Search for the photo you want or navigate. Click on the checkbox beside the photo. If you want to choose the size, click on the “more” link and you can choose the size and layout of the photo.

A while back I wrote an article on cleaning lego. The photos are since gone so I’m republishing it with updated media. The outdated article http://brickblog.net/2006/10/30/cleaning-lego.

Taking the lead from my history of buying Lego by the pound, my folks bestowed on me a large bin of Lego they had acquired at a yard sale this summer. The Lego was all in great shape but through the years of play clearly needed oils and dust washed away. Still having my equipment from washing 40+ pounds of Lego in the past, I knew right away what needed to be done.

Things to remember when cleaning your Lego:

• This stuff is plastic. Using excessively hot water can and will damage the Lego.
• Cleaning painted and or sticker parts should be done so carefully. I don’t care for stickers, so I didn’t care if they came off. Any painted pieces were cleaned with care. This method did not result in any damage.
• Lego suggests luke warm water and a mild soap. My method in the past was to eliminate smoke odor. It also worked to eliminate oils and dust from the bricks.

At the time of the original 40 lb cleaning, the first step was to determine how to wash the Lego without losing any of it down the drain. It just so happened that I had several of the Creator red buckets, and pleasantly, they stack inside of each other. Having just gotten a Dremel for my birthday, it was painfully obvious to me that I could use one of these buckets and cut thin slots in the sides to use it as a strainer. I removed the sticker label from the bucket and cut a series of slots in the sides of the bucket.

Remember, when working with any power tools, use appropriate safety procedures. In the process of cutting these slots, I did break a fiberglass wheel, sending pieces throughout the kitchen. I found the metal wheel to do much better, as it was not adversely impacted by the heat produced in this process.

If you don’t have these buckets, it’s also possible to float your Lego in anything that holds water. I did a second batch in a bigger bin that I then used a strainer to fish out the bricks with.

With my strainer made I took another bucket and put the strainer in it. I then filled bucket about 2/3 with the dirty Lego and added warm water with a bit of ammonia.

Using a cheap spoon I stirred the Lego a bit to ensure that the ammonia water would be applied to all surfaces. Once this was done, the power of the strainer became evident.

Lifting the inner modified bucket out was similar to using a deep fat fryer basket. The water drained out while retaining the Lego, even the little tiny pieces. This also allowed for much more lego to be cleaned at once then an ordinary kitchen strainer. You could then move the outer bucket to the side and proceeded to rinse the Lego, still in the inner bucket, under the faucet. I chose to use a seperate strainer to see how well it would work. If you are like me, BE SURE TO RINSE THOROUGHLY. Ammonia is a nasty chemical, and by rinsing well, you ensure that you don’t get any on things, or in your mouth when you build later. . .

Once rinsed, I moved the Lego to a table with a towel on it and let it dry. I was able to speed the process using a small space heater sitting on the table top, and by placing the table under a ceiling fan. This allowed the procces to be completed within a few hours.

Using this method I was able to remove any odor of smoke and reuse the same ammonia water a couple of times before it cooled.

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